How to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

How to Grow Cherry Tomatoes: A Friendly Gardener’s Guide

This isn’t a stiff, overly technical how-to. This is a laid-back, real-world guide based on years of trial, error, and delicious rewards. Whether you’ve got a big yard, a rooftop, or just a few containers, growing cherry tomatoes can become your favorite garden habit. Learn how to grow cherry tomatoes easily at home. From planting to harvesting, get simple tips on soil, sunlight, watering, and care .

Chapter 1: Why I Started to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

I still remember the first time I tasted a homegrown cherry tomato. A friend had brought a bowl of them from her garden—tiny red gems, still warm from the sun. I popped one in my mouth and paused mid-conversation. Sweet. Tangy. Alive. So unlike the pale, watery ones from the store.

That was the beginning of it all.

At the time, I wasn’t a seasoned gardener. I had a few pots on the porch and a habit of overwatering things. But those tomatoes stuck in my mind. I wanted that taste again—and I wanted to grow it myself.

So I bought a packet of seeds, grabbed an old pot, and gave it a try.

Spoiler alert: I didn’t get it right the first time. Or even the second. But I kept learning, and eventually, cherry tomatoes became my most reliable crop. They’re forgiving, fast-growing, and wildly satisfying.

Chapter 2: What Makes Cherry Tomatoes So Special?

Ask any casual gardener or hardcore homesteader, and most of them will tell you the same thing: cherry tomatoes are the gateway crop. They’re simple enough for beginners but rewarding enough for pros. Here’s why:

• They grow fast. From seed to harvest in as little as two months.
• They produce a lot. A single plant can give you bowls of fruit all summer long.
• They’re versatile. Great raw, roasted, in pasta, or eaten straight off the plant.
• They fit anywhere. Balcony, rooftop, raised bed, or windowsill—they don’t mind.
• They’re fun to share. There’s nothing like handing someone a handful of homegrown tomatoes and watching their face light up.

But don’t let their simplicity fool you. These little plants still have their moods, their needs, and their quirks. Get to know them, and they’ll reward you like nothing else.

Chapter 3: Choosing the Right Variety to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

When I first started out, I didn’t even know there were different kinds of cherry tomatoes. A tomato was a tomato, right?

Wrong.

There are dozens—probably hundreds—of varieties, each with its own flavor, color, size, and growth habit.

Here are a few I’ve grown over the years:

• ‘Sweet 100’ – A classic red, incredibly sweet, and produces like crazy.

• ‘Sungold’ – Golden-orange and tropical-sweet; hands down my favorite.

• ‘Black Cherry’ – Deep, rich flavor, almost like a small heirloom.

• ‘Yellow Pear’ – Cute as a button, mild in flavor, and great for salads.

If you’re starting out, I’d suggest growing two varieties—one reliable classic like ‘Sweet 100’ and one a little fun or unusual. That way, even if one doesn’t do great, you’ve got backup.

Chapter 4: Where to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

Here’s the beautiful thing about these plants—they don’t ask for much space. I’ve grown them:

• In 5-gallon buckets
• Along fences
• On rooftops
• In broken crates lined with rice sacks
• Even in hanging baskets though that was an experiment I don’t recommend

The golden rule? Wherever you grow them, they need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day—more if you can give it.

I once tried growing a cherry tomato plant in partial shade because I didn’t want to move a heavy pot. The result? A tall, leggy plant with about five tomatoes total. Lesson learned.

Chapter 5: Starting from Seed to Grow Cherry Tomatoes

If you’ve never started seeds before, don’t worry. It’s easier than you think. Here’s how I do it:

What you need:

• Seed-starting mix lighter than potting soil
• Small containers I reuse yogurt cups or egg cartons
• Cherry tomato seeds
• A spray bottle or light watering can

Steps:

1. Fill your containers with seed mix.
2. Moisten the soil—it should be damp but not soggy.
3. Make a small hole, about 1/4 inch deep.
4. Drop in a seed and cover it gently.
5. Place the containers in a warm, bright spot—windowsill, top of the fridge, or near a heater.
6. Keep the soil moist. Not soaked. Just enough so it doesn’t dry out.

You’ll see sprouts in 5 to 10 days. It’s like magic.

Pro tip: Once your seedlings have two sets of real leaves , gently transplant them into bigger containers to keep them growing strong.

Chapter 6: Transplanting to the Great Outdoors

Once the plants are 5 to 7 inches tall and the weather has warmed up , it’s time to move them outside.

Whether you’re planting in the ground, in a raised bed, or in containers, follow this method:

How to Transplant:

1. Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem halfway up the plant. Tomatoes love to grow roots from their stems.
2. Mix compost or aged manure into the soil.
3. Place the plant in the hole and backfill gently.
4. Water deeply.
5. Mulch around the base to keep the moisture in and weeds out.

Space plants 2 to 3 feet apart if you’re planting multiples. They might look small now, but they’ll fill out fast.

Chapter 7: Watering, Feeding & Keeping It All Balanced

This part used to stress me out. How much water is too much? Should I feed them? How often? Turns out, cherry tomatoes aren’t as delicate as I thought—but they do have preferences.

Watering Wisdom

When I first started, I watered my tomatoes like clockwork—every morning. What I didn’t realize was that I was watering the leaves, not the roots. Within a week, I saw spots on the leaves. Fungal disease. Whoops.

So here’s what works best:

• Water at the base of the plant. Avoid getting the leaves wet.
• Water deeply, not frequently. A long soak every 2–3 days depending on weather is better than a splash every morning.
• Use mulch. I lay down a layer of straw or dry grass. It keeps the soil moist and cuts down on weeds.

Feeding: Keep It Simple

You don’t need fancy fertilizer. In fact, too much nitrogen = big bushy plant, but no tomatoes.

Here’s my simple feeding plan:

• Mix compost into the soil at planting time.
• Once flowering starts, feed every 2 weeks with compost tea or a diluted organic fertilizer.
• Optional: Crushed eggshells at the base to provide calcium prevents blossom-end rot.

One year I overfed with high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer. The result? A 6-foot plant with only three tomatoes. Never again.

Chapter 8: Pests & Problems and How I Handled Them

Cherry tomatoes are pretty hardy, but you’ll eventually run into a few uninvited guests. I certainly did.

Here are the most common problems I’ve dealt with—and how I handled them without reaching for chemicals.

Aphids

Tiny green or black bugs on the underside of leaves. One day there were none, the next day… invasion.

My fix:
I sprayed a mix of water and a few drops of mild soap. Next day? Gone. You can also introduce ladybugs if you’re fancy.

Leaf Miners

They tunnel through the leaves, leaving squiggly lines.

Fix:
Pluck off affected leaves. Keep the plant strong—it usually outgrows the problem.

Powdery Mildew or Fungal Spots

Happens if you water from above or the air circulation is bad.

Fix:
Trim lower leaves, space your plants properly, and water at the base only. If needed, use a neem oil spray.

Blossom-End Rot

The bottom of your tomato turns black and soft.

Why it happens:
Usually a calcium imbalance or inconsistent watering.

My fix:
Add crushed eggshells or bone meal to the soil and water consistently.

Chapter 9: Harvesting Time – The Best Part

This is where all the patience pays off.

Cherry tomatoes ripen fast once they start. Most varieties are ready 60–75 days after planting. You’ll notice the color change first—bright red, orange, yellow, or even blackish-purple depending on the variety.

Harvesting Tips:

• Don’t wait too long. Overripe tomatoes may split.
• Pick daily if possible. The more you pick, the more they produce.
• Use scissors or gently twist. Don’t yank—you might damage the stem.

I usually pick a handful every morning and keep a bowl on the kitchen counter. Nothing lasts long enough to make it to the fridge.

Chapter 10: What to Do With All Those Tomatoes?

There was a week last summer when I was picking 60–70 cherry tomatoes a day. It was ridiculous in the best way.

Here’s what I like to do:

• Snack on them fresh—with a sprinkle of salt and olive oil
• Roast them with garlic and herbs for a pasta sauce
• Throw them into omelets, curries, and fried rice
• Make a small-batch tomato jam sweet, spicy, and addictive
• Give them away—neighbors, friends, even delivery guys love them

One time, I left a bowl outside my door for passersby with a note: “Take some cherry tomatoes—grown with love!” It was empty within hours.

Chapter 11: Common Mistakes I Made

Let me be honest. I’ve messed up a lot with tomatoes. But each mistake taught me something useful.

Mistake 1: Overcrowding

I once planted four seedlings in one container thinking it’d save space. Big mistake. The roots fought for water, and none of the plants did well.

Lesson: One plant per pot. Give them breathing room.

Mistake 2: Not Using Support

My first plant grew tall and flopped over, breaking half its branches.

Lesson: Use a cage, stake, or trellis early on.

Mistake 3: Watering the Leaves

Led to mildew and fungal issues.

Lesson: Always water the soil, not the foliage.

Mistake 4: Ignoring Suckers

They took over. My plant turned into a wild jungle.

Lesson: Remove side shoots if you want a cleaner, more productive plant.

Chapter 12: Growing Cherry Tomatoes in Small Spaces or Rooftops

Living in the city? Don’t worry—cherry tomatoes are perfect for balcony and rooftop gardening.

I grow most of mine in 12- to 14-inch buckets on my roof. Here’s what helps:

• Use cocopeat + compost mix for lightweight soil.
• Water trays under pots to catch excess water.
• Shade nets during peak summer to prevent leaf burn.
• Grow vertically. Use walls, bamboo stakes, or hanging trellises.

Even if you’ve just got a little ledge with sunlight, one healthy cherry tomato plant can change the way you look at food.

Final Thoughts

I’ve grown dozens of crops—spinach, beans, gourds, even pumpkins. But I always come back to cherry tomatoes.

They’re generous. Resilient. Easy to fall in love with. They connect you to the rhythm of nature in a way that’s hard to describe. You go out each morning, check on them, pick a few, smile, and head back in. It becomes a ritual. A tiny reminder that good things grow when you care for them—quietly, steadily, and with patience.

So if you’re thinking about it, let this be the sign you need: plant those seeds. Start with one pot. Give it sun, water, and love.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1. Can I grow cherry tomatoes in pots?
Yes! Cherry tomatoes grow very well in 10–12 inch pots. Just make sure the pot has proper drainage holes and receives at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily.
Q2. How often should I water cherry tomatoes?
Water deeply 2–3 times per week, depending on weather. In hot climates, daily watering may be needed, especially for potted plants.
Q3. What fertilizer is best for cherry tomatoes?
Use compost or organic fertilizer. During fruiting, switch to potassium-rich fertilizer like banana peel compost or tomato-specific feeds.
Q4. Do cherry tomato plants need support?
Yes, cherry tomato plants grow tall and need bamboo sticks, cages, or trellis for proper support and airflow.
Q5. How long does it take to harvest cherry tomatoes?
Usually 60–80 days from planting. Once fruits are fully red and firm, they are ready to harvest.

References

The Real Dirt Blog – Companion planting tips

My Gardening Notebook (2020–2024) – personal experiences, yields, and mistakes

University of California Master Gardener Program – Tomato Care Guides

Organic Farmers’ Network Bangladesh – Rooftop growing practices